Article courtesy of RootsRated
In southeastern South Dakota, pink quartzite towers rise directly out of Split Rock Creek in Palisades State Park, providing some of the most impressive climbing in the state. Once home to a flour mill powered by a water wheel on the creek, Palisades now offers a variety of outdoor activities, from hiking and fishing to geocaching and rock climbing. There are four hiking trails in the park that take you along the cliffs and formations, with climbing routes ranging from easy scrambling to 5.12 roofs.
About Palisades State Park
A truly unique place, the park is home to an impressive gorge smack dab in the middle of the prairie. Split Rock Creek has carved the gorge through a band of Sioux quartzite, making cliffs on each side and great climbing right off the water. Scientists estimate these quartzite spires are more than 1 billion years old.
Palisades State Park is the area’s only crag, but there are a variety of routes for any level climber. While there isn't a ton of friction on the rock, you will find crimps, slopers and crack systems to test the skills of beginners on top rope and seasoned trad climbers alike.
Palisades State Park is located at 48422 256th Street in Garretson, about 20 miles outside of Sioux Falls. Drilling, bolting and chipping are prohibited. Take a look at South Dakota’s Game, Fish & Parks department’s website for rules and regulations around climbing at Palisades.
Best Climbing Routes at Palisades State Park
Most of the bouldering and climbing is more beginner level, but there are some 5.12’s at the Palisades. The rock has crimps and slopers and a ton of crack systems. It's rarely crowded, so it's a great place to climb with a friend or two in peace. It's also a great place to go with a crew — there is something for pretty much everyone.
Voted on by climbers, Mountain Project reports the best face climbs as: Slandeross (5.12), Debuant Farmers (5.12), King Olof (5.10), Glimmer (5.10+), Never Say Never (5.10) and Henry Aaron (5.7), and the best boulder problems are Contrivance (V5), Necessary Contrivance (V4), I Seam Stumped (V3), Lithium CT (V2) and Head Hunters (V2).
What to Know Before You Go
Difficulty: 3/5 stars
Palisades State Park has a variety of routes and boulder problems from beginner to advanced (5.4-5.12).
Time to Complete: 4 hours
With more than 200 total climbs, there is enough to do here to keep you busy for a half- or full day.
Seasonality: Spring, Summer, Fall
While Palisades State Park is open year-round, it can get muggy and buggy in the summer, and temperatures decrease drastically in the winter.
Fees/Permits: Yes
The daily fee is $10 for residents and $15 for nonresidents. An annual pass is $40 for residents and $60 for nonresidents.
